|
Born in 1934 into a humble
family in Piacenza, a small town near Milan, Giorgio
Armani went to the local public school and developed a
love for the theater and cinema. After a short stint at
the University of Milan medical school, in 1957, he took
a job at the Milan department store La Rinascente. He
worked briefly as an assistant photographer before
accepting a promotion to its style office, where he
bought and exhibited quality products from India, Japan,
and the U.S., and, in so doing, helped to introduce
foreign cultures to the average Italian consumer.
In 1964, without any formal training, Armani designed a
line of menswear for Nino Cerruti. Encouraged by his
partner Sergio Galeotti, Armani left Cerruti and in 1970
became a freelance fashion designer and consultant. He
soon made his mark. In 1973-74, at the prestigious Sala
Bianca fashion show in Florence, he presented to great
acclaim bomber jackets that treated leather as a regular,
everyday fabric. This penchant for using materials in
unexpected contexts and combinations came to be known as
a defining characteristic of his genius. In 1975, Armani
and Galeotti started their own company, Giorgio Armani
S.p.A., and founded the Armani label. That July, Armani
launched a revolution in fashion with his unlined and
unconstructed man's jacket. Completely loose and
informal, the blazer offered sensual hints of the body
beneath, marking a major departure from, on the one hand,
the stuffy suits that straitjacketed men in the 1960s,
and, on the other, the sartorial abandon of the hippie
generation. The rumpled jacket was an immediate success,
and a new breed of tailoring was born. Three months
later, he unveiled an unstructured jacket for women. Made
with traditional menswear fabrics, it was as simple and
soft as the man's and bore a masculine authority. With
this alternative to long, flower-child skirts and classic
French tailleurs, Armani joined Paul Poiret and
Coco Chanel as an emancipator of women's
fashion. |
|
|
|
(Left to right) Man's sports jacket
ensemble, spring/summer 1991; man's suit,
spring/summer 1990. Photo by David
Heald. |
|
|
In the 1980s, the exquisitely tailored Armani "power
suit" for men and women came to symbolize an era of
international economic boom. With broad padded shoulders
and widened lapels, the look was inspired by the glamour
of 1940s Hollywood. Paul Schrader's film American
Gigolo (1980) exemplified this trademark combination
of power and sensuality with the now-famous scene in
which Richard Gere pulls from his closet and dances with
an extravagance of shirts, jackets, and ties as he
chooses the perfect ensemble. The film secured Armani's
fame with the general public and marked the beginning of
a long and fruitful history of collaboration on films,
most recently John Singleton's remake of Shaft
(2000). Armani has also created costumes for theater,
opera, and dance. |
|
|
In 1982, Armani became the first fashion designer to
appear on the cover of Time magazine since
Christian Dior in the 1940s. He was one of the first
designers to approach celebrities to wear his designs,
beginning with then Los Angeles Lakers coach Pat Riley in
1988. Armani also invited Hollywood stars to wear his
designs at the Academy Awards, winning devotees such as
Michelle Pfeiffer and Jodie Foster. Today Armani extends
his talent diversely, dressing Italian and English soccer
teams and Alitalia airline flight attendants.
TOP LEFT: Man's suit, fall/winter 1979-80.
Photo by Aldo Fallai.
TOP RIGHT: Woman's suit, fall/winter 1984-85. Photo by
Aldo Fallai.
|
|