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Giorgio Armani offers a
thematic look at the designer's evolution and
contribution to fashion and culture over the last 25
years. Garments from various periods are presented in
narrative clusters to express motifs that are visible
throughout Armani's career. Spectacular eveningwear and
interpretations of the tuxedo for women introduce
Armani's oeuvre. Also featured is the understated daywear
that first made the designer's reputation. Many of these
fashions, inspired by the cool clothes and warm colors of
the North African desert, illustrate Armani's signature
sandy or "greige" neutral palette. Examples of sensual,
body-conscious suits for men highlight Armani's noted
androgynous look, along with masculinized jackets for
women that evoke Marlene Dietrich (an important influence
on Armani's embrace of suiting for women). This modern
style is tempered by the romance of tradition and
historical fashion, with references to the Directoire and
Empire periods and the Belle Epoque. These garments are
presented in conjunction with selections of spectacular
beaded and embroidered ensembles inspired by dress and
textiles from a range of non-Western cultures including
China, India, and Polynesia. Armani's interest in the
East is underscored by his minimalist approach to both
day- and eveningwear, which strips exotic dress to a
sophisticated yet practical simplicity, and the use of
Japanese elements is directly visible in his
interpretations of the traditional kimono and samurai or
oroyoi armor. |
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Armani has described his clothes as costumes
for the world stage; Giorgio Armani presents many
of the personae that Armani has offered. On view are
selected cinema costumes as well as clothes familiar from
the red carpet, worn for the Academy Awards and other
ceremonies that have become synonymous with the glamour
and cultural power of Armani. A small group of sketches
complements advertising photography and clips from films
that Armani has costumed to yield a fuller picture of how
the designer sees his own creations and how they are
interpreted by others. Armani's look continues to evolve even as it maintains its sleek, refined aesthetic. His more recent designs return to a streamlined silhouette, with the same body-consciousness that informed his first innovative efforts. The style that established him as a celebrated symbol of the 20th century is a harmonious balance of contradictions: the modern and the traditional, East and West, black and white, the old and the new, the functional and the fanciful, the elegant and the casual. His style is sophisticated yet prêt-à-porter, conveying a relaxed confidence, a sobriety and refinement, a sensuality with a democratic mission. To acquire an Armani suit has become a rite of passage, a symbol of success sought or won. The very name Armani has become a talisman, a sign of the designer's wide appeal and integration into everyday life. TOP LEFT: (left to right) Woman's pants ensemble, fall/winter 1994-95; woman's jacket and dress, spring/summer 1994; woman's jacket and pants, fall/winter 1994-95. Photo by David Heald. TOP RIGHT: Woman's evening jacket and pants (detail), fall/winter 1990-91. Photo by Ellen Labenski. |
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